Surfactants are multifunctional molecules widely used in personal care and healthcare formulations to cleanse, help disperse active ingredients (e.g., forming emulsions) and stabilise products. With increasing demands on improving biosafety, there is now mounting pressure to understand how different surfactants elicit toxicities at molecular and cellular levels. This work reports the membrane-lytic behaviour of a group of sulphonated methyl ester (SME) surfactants together with representative conventional surfactants. All surfactants displayed the clear rise of lysis of the model lipid bilayer membranes around their CMCs, but the two ionic surfactants SDS and C12TAB even caused measurable lysis below their CMCs, with membrane-lytic actions increasing with monomer concentration. Furthermore, whilst ionic and nonionic surfactants could achieve full membrane lysis once above their CMCs, this ability was weak from the SME surfactants and decreased with increasing the acyl chain length. In contrast to the conventional anionic surfactants such as SDS and SLES, the protein solubilizing capability of the SME surfactants was also low. On the other hand, MTT assays against 3T3 fibroblast cells and human chondrocyte cells revealed high toxicity from SDS and C12TAB against the other surfactants studied, but the difference between SME and the rest of conventional surfactants was small. Similar behaviour was also observed in their bactericidal effect against E. coli and S. aureus. The trend is broadly consistent with their membrane-lytic behaviour, indicating little selectivity in their cytotoxicity and bactericidal action. These results thus reveal different toxicities implicated from different surfactant head groups. Increase in acyl chain length as observed from SME surfactants could help improve surfactant biocompatibility.
Keratins are a group of important proteins in skin and hair and as biomaterials they can provide desirable properties such as strength, biocompatibility, and moisture regaining and retaining. The aim of this work is to develop water-soluble keratin polypeptides from sheep wool and then explore how their surface adsorption behaves with and without surfactants. Successful preparation of keratin samples was demonstrated by identification of the key components from gel electrophoresis and the reproducible production of gram scale samples with and without SDS (sodium dodecylsulphate) during wool fibre dissolution. SDS micelles could reduce the formation of disulphide bonds between keratins during extraction, reducing inter-molecular crosslinking and improving keratin polypeptide solubility. However, Zeta potential measurements of the two polypeptide batches demonstrated almost identical pH dependent surface charge distributions with isoelectric points around pH 3.5, showing complete removal of SDS during purification by dialysis. In spite of different solubility from the two batches of keratin samples prepared, very similar adsorption and aggregation behavior was revealed from surface tension measurements and dynamic light scattering. Mixing of keratin polypeptides with SDS and C12TAB (dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide) led to the formation of keratin-surfactant complexes that were substantially more effective at reducing surface tension than the polypeptides alone, showing great promise in the delivery of keratin polypeptides via the surface active complexes. Neutron reflection measurements revealed the coexistence of surfactant and keratin polypeptides at the interface, thus providing the structural support to the observed surface tension changes associated with the formation of the surface active complexes.