METHODS: The active compounds in cocoa pod extracts (CPE) were screened using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Fibroblast cells were used to determine the effective concentration of CPE to maintain the viability for at least 50% of the cells (EC50 ). The gel was tested by 12 panelists to determine the efficacy of CPE in gel form using Visioscan to reduce skin wrinkles and improve skin condition.
RESULTS: CPE was detected to contain malic acid, procyanidin B1, rosmarinic acid, procyanidin C1, apigenin, and ellagic acid, all of which may contribute to functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The EC50 value of cocoa pod extracts was used to calculate the amount of CPE to be incorporated into gel so that the formulated product could reach an effective concentration of extract while being nonintoxicant to the skin cell. The results showed that CPE is potential ingredient to reduce wrinkles. Skin wrinkles reduced at 6.38 ± 1.23% with the application of the CPE gel within 3 weeks and significantly improved further (12.39 ± 1.59%) after 5 weeks. The skin hydration increased (3.181 ± 1.06%) after 3 weeks of the CPE gel application.
CONCLUSION: Flavonoid compounds in CPE contributed to the functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The CPE which is nontoxic to skin cells help to reduce wrinkles on skin after 3 weeks of application. CPE can be used as the active ingredients in antiwrinkle products, and prolonged application may result in significant visual changes to the naked eyes.
AIMS: To describe the MD ASA technique and present its preliminary application.
METHODS: MD ASA breaks down the face into five hierarchies (H1-H5). H1 shifts patients' focus from "distractions" (individual lines and folds) toward the overall messages their face portrays, based on eight Emotional Attributes: four negative (tired, sad, angry, and saggy); four positive (youthful, attractive, contoured, and feminine/masculine). Three priority Emotional Attributes are selected for each patient. This is followed by a process of narrowing down through facial thirds (H2), periorbital and perioral dynamics (H3), facial units (H4), and subunits (H5), to arrive at a final assessment. Based on the key facial signs identified, this can be translated into MD Codes equations and thus a treatment formula. A retrospective analysis was performed based on 12 female patients injected by expert clinicians at an educational event. All patients were selected for, and treated using, a single MD Codes formula derived from a common MD ASA work-up.
RESULTS: There were substantial differences between patients and clinicians in their views of which anatomical areas needed treatment-but good alignment on priority Emotional Attributes. Patients were treated only for three negative Emotional Attributes, but improvements were observed across all eight attributes.
CONCLUSIONS: MD ASA provides a practical method for translating facial messages into actionable injectable treatment plans and facilitates greater patient-clinician alignment. Prospective studies are warranted.
AIMS: This study aimed to survey users and non-users of aesthetic procedures in countries where this information is less readily available, to understand attitudes and perceptions relating to beauty.
PATIENTS/METHODS: Two independent internet-based observational surveys were conducted. Survey 1: individuals from Colombia, Lebanon, Malaysia, Russia and Turkey who were 'users' or 'non-users' of aesthetic medical procedures. Survey 2: individuals from Colombia, Russia, Thailand, Turkey and the United Arab Emirates who were 'users' of non-surgical aesthetic treatments.
RESULTS: Surveys 1 and 2 were completed by 300 and 160 individuals, respectively, most of whom were female (94.0% and 99%). Overall, respondents rated the eyes and smile as the most pleasing male and female facial features. Most participants (mean 82.6%; range 75%-100%) believed maintaining a healthy lifestyle was important for ageing gracefully, and over one-third (36.0%; 28%-47%) believed men age more gracefully than women. The emphasis respondents placed on the importance of physical attributes vs inner feelings, internal beauty and self-confidence varied between countries. Users were often more positive about aesthetic medical procedure outcomes than non-users. Adequate information, good physician communication (including managing treatment expectations), treatment recommendations based on patient need and good aftercare improved treatment satisfaction.
CONCLUSIONS: The eyes and smile were key features of attractiveness, but maintaining a healthy lifestyle was consistently considered an important factor for ageing gracefully. Ensuring patients are well informed was a major determinant of treatment satisfaction.
AIMS: The objective of this research was to evaluate the antioxidant, antibacterial and potential wound-healing properties in aqueous extraction of E cottonii in order to meet the increasing demand for halal and natural cosmeceutical products.
METHODS AND RESULTS: Aqueous extract of E cottonii was investigated for active compounds by phytochemical screening and IR spectroscopy. Antioxidant activity was carried out using DPPH method, and the IC50 value was 1.99 mg/mL. Antibacterial activity was examined against Staphylococcus Aureus using Kirby-Bauer disk diffusion method and showed 10.03 ± 0.06 mm zone of inhibition, achieved by 200 mg/mL of extracts. A wound was made by skin excision of area around 100 mm2 on each mouse. Test group was treated with aqueous extract gel (10% w/w); meanwhile, the mice that were treated with honey acted as the positive control group and the untreated mice as negative control group. Results showed that the wound contraction rate inclined to aqueous extracts as compared to untreated group (P
OBJECTIVE: This review paper aimed to shed light on the skin-whitening ingredients and their issues related to safety, health risk, and halal status.
METHODOLOGY: Based on the reviews scientific publications published from January 2015 to July 2020 using Web of Science and Scopus engines.
FINDINGS: Based on the review, most of the common ingredients in the skin-whitening products are originated from plants, animals, microbes, and heavy metals. Health risk of the ingredients was evaluated based on the usage, chronic or acute adverse effect, frequency of incidence, and the hazardous chemical contents of a halal cosmetics. The halal status of the ingredients was investigated based on the sources of origin, safety evaluation, and associated health risk of the ingredients.
ORIGINALITY: This review shows that ingredients play a vital role in the halal status decision-making of a cosmetic product. Therefore, the categories of Halal-Safe, Haram-Prohibited, and Critical-Need further evaluation were suggested to integrate the sources of ingredients with safety.
METHODS: This prospective study was performed between 2011 and 2015. All 150 patients were given 10 mg daily isotretinoin until a cumulative dose of 90-110 mg/kg.
RESULTS: The mean age was 26.6 years with 64.7% moderate acne, 29.3% severe, and 6% very severe. The mean cumulative dose was 98.8 ± 6.05 mg/kg. All 150 patients had total clearance with a mean time to clearance of 24.0 weeks. Patients with severe/very severe acne had higher cumulative dosage (102.1 vs. 97.0, P
AIM: To study the preference of eyebrow apex positions on the different facial shapes in the Malaysian population.
METHODS: A frontal view photograph of a female model was morphed into oval, square, round, and long facial shapes. Four types of brow apex were created on each facial shape, A. above the midpupil (A-MP), B. above the lateral limbus (A-LL), C. halfway between the lateral limbus and lateral canthus (A-HF) and D. above the lateral canthus (A-LC). Out of the four brow apexes, the respondent selected one esthetically appealing brow apex for each facial shape. A total of 441 Malaysians completed the survey questionnaire. Differences in preference between the ethnic groups were analyzed by the chi-square test.
RESULTS: The majority of Malaysian Chinese (MC) and Malaysian Indians (MI) subjects found A-LL as attractive on the oval (MC-73%, MI-52%), square (MC-42%, MI-42%), round (MC-45%, MI-40%) and long (MC-39%, MI-44%) shape, but the Malaysian Malays preferred more the A-HF on long (42%) and round (42%) face. While the Malaysian Indians least preferred the A-MP on the oval (4%), square (5%), round (6%), and long (5%). A significant difference in preference of apex position was observed between MC versus MI and MC versus MM in both oval and square faces. On the round face, the difference was noted between all the ethnic groups. However, on the long face, a significant difference was noted only between MI and MM.
CONCLUSIONS: Significant interethnic differences exist in the preference of eyebrow apex position on the facial shapes.
OBJECTIVE: This systematic review aims to enlighten the current detection tools developing for fatty acids profile authentication analyses of cosmetic ingredients based on the effectiveness, halal status, safety, advantages and disadvantages of the methods.
METHODOLOGY: The data were extracted from the scientific literatures published between October 2015 and 2020 in the Web of Science, Scopus and Google Scholar databases, and analyzed with Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA).
FINDINGS: Based on the systemic literature reviews, essential oil, argan oil, mineral oil, vegetable oil, and jojoba oil were among the mostly studied ingredients in cosmetics. Furthermore, a combination of more than one analytical instrument was utilized to profile fatty acids while the determination of the origin of the fatty acids is under scrutiny. The portable mass spectrometer combined with a direct inlet membrane (DIM) probe seems to be the best tool in terms of time consumption, cost, requires no sample preparation with high efficiency. The current review showed that the best cosmetic base is when the oil is composed of high concentration of fatty acids such as linoleic, oleic, stearic acid, and palmitic acids with concentration range from 19.7 - 46.30%, which offers various beneficial properties to cosmetic products.
OBJECTIVE: This article reviews EBDs-based augmented treatment for melasma and suggests practical pathogenesis-oriented treatment regimens. Treatment algorithms are proposed to address various components of melasma.
METHODS: A systematic PubMed search was conducted acquiring information from various studies on combination treatments of melasma involving EBDs.
RESULTS: The 286 retrieved articles were filtered by title to contain at least one type of energy-based modality such as laser, IPL, or RF along with at least one other treatment method. Based on their subject matter, combinations were further categorized into the subheadings: laser plus medication, laser plus laser, and IPL- and RF-containing treatment methods.
CONCLUSION: There are many energy-based combination treatments that have been explored for mitigation of melasma including laser therapy with medication, multi-laser therapies, IPL, RF, and microneedling devices. Melasma is an exceedingly difficult condition to treat, however, choosing the appropriate tailor-made treatment combination can improve the final outcome.
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the efficacies and safety of adsorbent lotion containing tapioca starch, spent grain wax, Butyrospermum parkii extract, argania spinosa kernel oil, aloe barbadensis, rosehip oil, and allantoin for the treatment of mild-to-moderate intertrigo, relative to 1% hydrocortisone cream.
METHODS: This randomized, double-blinded study enrolled 40 intertrigo patients. Twice daily, 20 patients applied adsorbent lotion while the remainder used 1% hydrocortisone cream. Efficacy evaluation, skin biophysical measurements, skin tolerability, safety, and visual analog scale (VAS) patient-satisfaction scores were evaluated at baseline and Week 2.
RESULTS: The adsorbent lotion showed higher complete cure rates for color, partial epidermal loss, papules/pustules/vesicles/patches, dryness, and scaling than the corticosteroid without statistical significance. Adsorbent lotion demonstrated significantly higher reduction in pruritus than the corticosteroid treatment. Reduction of erythema level using Mexameter and VAS patient-satisfaction scores were not statistically different between adsorbent lotion and hydrocortisone cream. No adverse effects or superimposed infections were reported.
CONCLUSIONS: The anti-inflammatory efficacies of adsorbent lotion and low-potency steroid were equivalent. The lotion was safe and produced excellent pruritus reduction. Patient satisfaction was high.
OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a botanical-based Rosa E pigmentation serum in healthy fair skin female volunteers with wrinkles, skin tone, and pigmentation.
METHODS: This was a single-arm, open label study conducted in healthy Indian females; 18 subjects aged 30-55, having fair Caucasian-like skin with at least 2 dark skin pigments with facial wrinkles diagnosed by dermatologist were selected. Rosa E pigmentation serum was applied twice a day for 84 days. Effect was evaluated by (i) instrumental technique (spectrophotometer® 2600D), (ii) clinically by dermatologist regarding product efficacy (skin tone, antiwrinkle, pigmentation), and (iii) volunteers self-evaluation.
RESULTS: The L* value of spectrophotometer reading represents lightness in the skin pigment. Reduction in the pigment was reported from day 14, with significant reductions observed till day 84 compared with baseline. Significant (P < .0001) skin pigmentation lightening was seen on day 14 (1.11) vastly improving on day 84 (1.94) based on photographic assessments. The significant reduction in skin pigment was 76.85%, Felix von Luschan skin color score was 30.24% (P < .0001) with a 7.38-fold reduction in skin tone and 57% reduction in facial wrinkles at day 84 from baseline.
CONCLUSIONS: Rosa E pigmentation serum was found safe and effective in significant reduction in skin pigments, improvement of skin tone, and antiwrinkle properties instrumentally, clinically, and self-evaluation by volunteers. In these evaluations, best results were seen the longer the Rosa E was used.
METHODS: In this review, a total of 35 articles were selected using the Scopus database based on the inclusion and exclusion criteria RESULT: The significant correlation between total phenolic content, total flavonoid content, antioxidant activities, and sun protection factor were shown in these studies which confirmed the potential benefits of natural plants in sunscreen development.
CONCLUSIONS: In addition, natural botanical sources also exhibit excellent anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, the biological activities of plants were dependent on the solvents used for extraction.
OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to identify the presence of mercury in skin whitening products, and to identify products containing mercury with the concentration exceeding the limitation of 1 ppm.
METHODOLOGY: A total of 104 whitening products were selected from the market via random sampling technique. The mercury concentration was determined by accredited laboratory, and the results were later compared with the cosmetic guideline of Malaysia and the list of banned products issued by NPRA.
RESULTS: A total of 51.9% (n = 54) whitening products were found registered under the NPRA Quest system and remaining 48.1% (n = 50) were non-registered products. None of the whitening products listed mercury as an ingredient, but laboratory analysis showed 15.4% (n = 16) of the products contained mercury with the concentration exceeding the maximum limit of 1 ppm. A total of 87.5% of the whitening products (14 out of 16) containing high mercury concentration were non-registered products which were not registered in NPRA Quest system. The exceeded concentration recorded ranged between 1.81 ppm and 838 123 ppm. Besides that, 50% (8 out of 16) of the products were found in the list of banned products issued by the NPRA of Malaysia.
CONCLUSIONS: This study presents the status of cosmetic products, particularly the skin whitening products available in Malaysia market. Concern arises when some of the products were found to have presence of harmful substances such as mercury. Even though the presence of mercury in a cosmetic product can either be non-intentional or intentionally used by the manufacturer in the cosmetic formulation, the impact of the ingredient can cause health risk to the users.