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  1. Sang SH, Akowuah GA, Liew KB, Lee SK, Keng JW, Lee SK, et al.
    Heliyon, 2023 Nov;9(11):e21876.
    PMID: 38034771 DOI: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2023.e21876
    Hair shampoos containing botanical ingredients without synthetic additives, such as parabens, petrochemicals, sulfates and silicones are more skin- and environmentally friendly. In recent years, there is a growing demand for shampoo products with botanical extracts. Shampoos with botanical extracts are well-known for their perceived health benefits. They are also generally milder, non-toxic, natural, and less likely to disrupt the hair and scalp's natural pH and oil balance. Many also believe that shampoos with botanical origins have higher standards of quality. Numerous botanical extracts had been used as natural active ingredients in cosmetic formulations to meet consumer demands. In this review, we have revisited six tropical plants commonly added as natural active ingredients in shampoo formulations: Acacia concinna, Camellia oleifera, Azadirachta indica, Emblica officinalis, Sapindus mukorossi, and Garcinia mangostana. These plants have been traditionally used for hair care, and scientific research has shown that they exhibit relevant physicochemical properties and biological activities that are beneficial for hair care and scalp maintenance.
  2. Lee SK, Keng JW, Yon JA, Mai CW, Lim HC, Chow SC, et al.
    Plants (Basel), 2025 Jan 24;14(3).
    PMID: 39942922 DOI: 10.3390/plants14030362
    To study Cassia alata (CA) (Linnaeus) Roxburgh's effectiveness towards atopic dermatitis (AD), CA leaf extracts were prepared using three methanol-based extraction solvent systems. Bioactive constituents were characterized and quantified via high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection. Antioxidant properties and antimicrobial activities against Staphylococcus aureus, a major AD exacerbation factor, were assessed. Four polyphenols (two flavonoids, two anthraquinones) beneficial in AD control were detected (rhein > aloe-emodin > astragalin > kaempferol). The 75% v/v MeOH/water extract had the most polyphenols and the best antioxidant profile (total phenolic content, total flavonoid content, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl-hydrate radical scavenging activity, ascorbic acid equivalent antioxidant capacity), with excellent S. aureus inhibition (minimum inhibitory concentration = 0.625 mg/mL; minimum bactericidal concentration = 1.25 mg/mL). Hence, it was selected for the in vitro examination of cytotoxicity and wound healing activity towards human epidermal keratinocyte cells using a 3-(4,5-dimethyl-2-thiazolyl)-2,5-diphenyl-2h-tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay and wound scratch assay. The extract showed no cytotoxicity (IC50 > 100 µg/mL) without significant reduction in cell viability up to 200 µg/mL compared to the vehicle control. An amount of 50 μg/mL extract concentration showed the best wound-healing activity (p < 0.05), with a cell migration rate of 5.89 ± 0.80 µm/h over 96 h post-treatment. Such antioxidant, antimicrobial, and wound-healing activities suggest CA and its polyphenols to be promising natural, long-term AD remedies for skin health.
  3. Lim HC, Lee SK, Keng JW, Lee EQ, Tan ESS, Liew KB, et al.
    Drug Deliv Transl Res, 2025 Nov;15(11):4260-4276.
    PMID: 40783675 DOI: 10.1007/s13346-025-01939-0
    Plant oils play an important role in natural product-based dermatological formulations owing to their multifunctional therapeutic properties. Among these, sunflower seed oil (SSO) has gained prominence due to its dual role as a barrier-restoring emollient and skin penetration enhancer. Rich in unsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid (LA) and oleic acid (OA), SSO supports skin health by restoring lipid bilayer organization, modulating ceramide synthesis, and activating peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-alpha (PPAR-α). These mechanisms reinforce barrier integrity while facilitating transdermal delivery of active agents. However, oils high in OA and/or containing protein allergens may compromise barrier function and promote allergen penetration, necessitating careful evaluation of chemical composition and structural characteristics. Ex vivo studies using porcine skin models have demonstrated SSO ability to enhance the permeation of both hydrophilic and lipophilic compounds. Clinically, SSO has shown efficacy in reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), improving hydration, and accelerating wound healing in conditions such as xerosis and atopic dermatitis. Its favourable safety profile, biocompatibility, and successful incorporation into various dermatological and cosmeceutical formulations underscore its versatility. This review critically examines the molecular interactions between SSO and the skin barrier, with specific focus on its roles in barrier restoration, inflammation modulation and transdermal enhancement. Mechanistic insights from its fatty acid composition are integrated with ex vivo findings, supported by clinical evidence, to evaluate its therapeutic potential and utility as a multifunctional, plant-based excipient in modern topical drug delivery systems for human skin health.
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