Skin is the largest external organ of the human body. It acts as a barrier to protect the human body from environmental pollution, mechanical stress, and excessive water loss. The defensive function resides primarily on top of the epidermis layer commonly known as stratum corneum (SC). Human SC consists of three major lipids, namely ceramide, free fatty acid, and cholesterol that comprise approximately 50%, 25%, and 25% of the total lipid mass, respectively. The optimal composition of SC lipids is the vital epidermal barrier function of the skin. On the other hand, skin barrier serves to limit passive water loss from the body, reduces chemical absorption from the environment, and prevents microbial infection. In contrast, epidermal lipids are important to maintain the cell structure, growth and differentiation, cohesion and desquamation as well as formation of a permeability barrier. Multiple non-invasive in vivo approaches were implemented on a regular basis to monitor skin physiological and intercellular lipid properties. The measurement of different parameters such as transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration level, skin elasticity, collagen intensity, melanin content, sebum, pH, and tape stripping is essential to evaluate the epidermal barrier function. Novel non-invasive techniques such as tape stripping, ultrasound imaging, and laser confocal microscopy offer higher possibility of accurate and detailed characterisation of skin barrier. To date, these techniques have also been widely used to determine the effects of herbal plants in dermatology. Herbal plants have been traditionally used for ages to treat a variety of skin diseases, as reported by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Their availability, lower cost, and minimal or no side effects have created awareness among society, thus increase the demand for natural sources as the remedy to treat various skin diseases. This paper reviews several non-invasive techniques and evaluations of herbal-based product in dermatology.
Primarily, optimization of ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions of Orthospihon stamineus was evaluated and verified using a central composite design (CCD) based on three factors including extraction time (minutes), ultrasound amplitude (A), and solvent concentration (%). The response surface methodology (RSM) was performed to develop an extraction method with maximum yield and high rosmarinic acid content. The optimal UAE conditions were as follows: extraction time 21 min, ultrasound amplitudes 62 A, and solvent composition 70% ethanol in water. The crude extract was further fractionated using solid-phase extraction (SPE), where six sequential fractions that varied in polarity (0-100% Acetonitrile in water) were obtained. Next, the six fractions were evaluated for their antioxidant and anti-cancer properties. This study found that Fraction 2 (F2) contained the highest rosmarinic acid content and showed the strongest antioxidant activity. Additionally, F2 showed an anti-proliferative effect against prostate cancer (DU145) with no harmful effect on normal cells.