METHODS: 5-fluorouracil-loaded ethosomes were prepared and subjected to size, zeta potential, morphology, drug content, drug release and skin permeation tests. The molecular characteristics of untreated, microwave and/or ethosome-treated skins were examined by Fourier transform infrared and raman spectroscopy, thermal and electron microscopy techniques.
RESULTS: The skin drug retention was promoted using larger ethosomes with negative zeta potentials that repelled anionic lipids of skin and hindered vesicle permeation into deep layers. These ethosomes had low ethanol content. They were less able to fluidize the lipid and defluidize the protein domains at epidermis to enlarge aqueous pores for drug permeation. Pre-treatment of skin by 2450 MHz microwave for 2.5 min further increased skin drug penetration and retention of low ethanol ethosomes and provided lower drug permeation than cases treated for 1.15 min and 5 min. A 2.5 min treatment might be accompanied by specific dermal protein fluidization via C=O moiety which translated to macromolecular swelling, narrowing of intercellular spaces at lower skin layers, increased drug retention and reduced drug permeation.
CONCLUSION: Ethosomes and microwave synergized to promote skin drug retention.
OBJECTIVES: To develop a novel in vitro skin glycation model as a screening tool for topical formulations with antiglycation properties and to further characterize, at the molecular level, the glycation stress-driven skin ageing mechanism.
METHODS: The glycation model was developed using human reconstituted full-thickness skin; the presence of N(ε) -(carboxymethyl) lysine (CML) was used as evidence of the degree of glycation. Topical application of emulsion containing a well-known antiglycation compound (aminoguanidine) was used to verify the sensitivity and robustness of the model. Cytokine immunoassay, quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction and histological analysis were further implemented to characterize the molecular mechanisms of skin ageing in the skin glycation model.
RESULTS: Transcriptomic and cytokine profiling analyses in the skin glycation model demonstrated multiple biological changes, including extracellular matrix catabolism, skin barrier function impairment, oxidative stress and subsequently the inflammatory response. Darkness and yellowness of skin tone observed in the in vitro skin glycation model correlated well with the degree of glycation stress.
CONCLUSIONS: The newly developed skin glycation model in this study has provided a new technological dimension in screening antiglycation properties of topical pharmaceutical or cosmeceutical formulations. This study concomitantly provides insights into skin ageing mechanisms driven by glycation stress, which could be useful in formulating skin antiageing therapy in future studies.